Mobile, Alabama · Warm-season lawns

The Mobile year.

What a St. Augustine, centipede, or zoysia yard needs in Mobile, month by month. Our route follows the same rhythm.

This month · October

Leaves, and a slower mower.

The cut stretches out. What the yard needs is a cleanup and clean edges, not a shorter setting. Oak shade and the first cool nights change the schedule.

Leave it. Do not keep the July fertilizer habit once the lawn has slowed down.

December – February

Winter

The grass rests. Edges, beds, and a clean walk are what the yard still needs.

December

A kept yard, not a growing one.

Holidays and house showings are when a quiet lawn still has to look finished. That is edges, beds, and a clean walk. The grass can rest.

  • Blow walks and porches after a storm.
  • Pull vines and trim whatever is in the way of the house.
  • Turn off a watering schedule that was built for August.

Leave it. Do not fertilize, and do not mow dormant grass down for a “clean” look.

January

Let the lawn rest.

St. Augustine, centipede, and zoysia are barely growing. A short cut exposes the crowns. The useful work is edges, beds, and whatever the last storm left behind.

  • Mow only if the grass is actually growing, and leave it tall.
  • Clean walks and beds so the yard looks kept while the lawn is quiet.
  • Water only in a dry, warm stretch. Winter rain usually covers a Mobile yard.

Leave it. Do not fertilize a lawn that is not growing.

February

Watch for the first green.

A warm week can start St. Augustine moving, then a cold night stops it. This is the month to look at the yard and plan the route, not to push the grass.

  • Walk the yard for thin spots and vines on the house or the fence.
  • If crabgrass shows up every summer, a pre-emergent belongs before those weeds sprout.
  • Keep oak litter off the turf so the lawn can see the sun.

Leave it. Do not lay sod while the soil is still cold. It will sit there instead of rooting.

March – May

Spring

Green-up, the live-oak leaf drop, and the mowing route starting back.

March

Green-up starts under the oaks.

Sunny St. Augustine and zoysia move first. Shade under live oaks lags. Those same oaks drop a heavy leaf crop now, which catches people who only expect leaves in the fall.

  • Start a regular cut once the grass needs it. Take off no more than a third.
  • Blow or rake the live-oak drop so it does not mat the lawn.
  • Wait to feed until the lawn is growing, not just showing a little color.

Leave it. Do not scalp brown patches to force them green.

April

The route should be running.

Growth is real. Every two weeks is the usual Mobile rhythm. A yard that is watered and growing hard often wants a weekly cut.

  • Mow, edge, and blow on a set weekday.
  • Feed St. Augustine now that it is growing. Go easy on centipede. It wants less fertilizer than the other grasses.
  • Refresh pine straw or mulch so the beds hold water and look finished.

Leave it. Do not mow a soaked lawn down after a Gulf rain.

May

Grow it, then keep up.

The long season starts here. The lawn that stays on a steady cut in May is the one that still looks finished in August.

  • Stay on the weekly or every-two-weeks route.
  • Water in the morning, about an inch a week including rain. Skip the day if it already rained.
  • Shape hedges before they reach the windows.

Leave it. Do not water a little every evening. Humid nights and a wet lawn invite fungus.

June – August

Summer

Cut higher, water in the morning, and keep the weekday.

June

Cut higher and water in the morning.

Heat and wet air are the job now. A taller St. Augustine shades its own roots and stays greener. Centipede and zoysia still should not be buzzed down to the soil.

  • Raise the mower. St. Augustine likes about 3.5 to 4 inches.
  • Water deeply in the morning, then let it dry. An inch a week is the aim when rain does not do it.
  • Keep the edges sharp. A tall lawn still looks kept when the lines are clean.

Leave it. Do not fertilize in the middle of a dry spell.

July

Hold the height.

This is the hardest month on a Mobile lawn. The grass is growing, rain comes in dumps, and a dull or too-short cut shows up immediately.

  • Keep the same weekday. Skipping two cycles in July is obvious from the street.
  • If the lawn browns in a wet, humid stretch, more water is usually the wrong move.
  • Weed the beds before the summer growth swallows them.

Leave it. Do not cut off more than a third of the blade in one pass.

August

Stay on the route.

August looks like July with a tired lawn. The yards that still look good are the ones that never left the schedule.

  • Same cut height. Same morning watering rule.
  • Trim hedges that flushed again after the early summer cut.
  • Mark thin spots for sod while the grass can still root before fall.

Leave it. Do not drop the mower deck to “clean it up.” That is how a summer lawn gets scalped.

September – November

Fall

The last feed, the leaves, and mowing that slows down with the grass.

September

One more push, then ease off.

Nights start to cool and growth slows. This is the last good window to feed a warm-season lawn, and still a fair time to lay sod that can root before the quiet months.

  • A lighter feed now, then stop. Nitrogen late in the fall pushes growth a cold snap can burn.
  • Sod still has time if you water it in.
  • Watch the first real leaf fall from the shade trees.

Leave it. Do not start a heavy feeding program that runs into November.

October · now

Leaves, and a slower mower.

The cut stretches out. What the yard needs is a cleanup and clean edges, not a shorter setting. Oak shade and the first cool nights change the schedule.

  • Mow when it needs it, not because the summer route said every week.
  • Clear leaves before they mat and smother the grass.
  • Water only if a week passes with no rain.

Leave it. Do not keep the July fertilizer habit once the lawn has slowed down.

November

Put the beds to bed.

The lawn is mostly done for the year. The work now is beds, pine straw, and a blow after the leaves.

  • Edge and weed the beds, then refresh straw or mulch.
  • Haul leaves and storm sticks before they sit all winter.
  • Leave the grass tall going into the quiet months.

Leave it. Do not overseed St. Augustine with winter rye. It fights the lawn when spring comes back.

The three grasses

Know the yard before the month.

The calendar is the same. The height is not.

St. Augustine

Wide, coarse blades on thick runners. The usual Mobile front yard, and the one that takes some shade.

Usually cut at 3.5–4 in.

Cut it low and it thins out. Keep the height up through the summer heat.

Centipede

Low, light green, and slow. It grows in sandy Gulf Coast soil and does not need much fertilizer.

Usually cut at 1.5–2 in.

Go easy on feed. Too much fertilizer is a common way centipede gets into trouble.

Zoysia

Dense, fine, and stiff underfoot. Kept up, it lies down like a carpet.

Usually cut at 1.5–2.5 in.

Thatch builds up. Steady cuts at the same height keep it from going spongy.

On the route

How a year with us works.

01

Read the month

The work changes. A July cut and a January cleanup are not the same visit.

02

Book that job

Signature route, leaves, beds, hedges, feed, or sod. The button goes straight to the scheduler.

03

Keep the weekday

Weekly or every two weeks. Same day, then the season tells us what to do.

04

We confirm it

A shaded oak yard and a sunny lot in West Mobile are not on the same week. We say so before we start.

Mowing heights and feeding windows here are for Mobile’s warm-season lawns. They are a guide, not a product label. We confirm the visit for the yard in front of us.